Better Bali

“Feet, what do I need you for when I have wings to fly?” (Frida Kahlo)

On Thursday morning I got up nice and early and finally went to see Bali! The good thing about staying at a nice hotel is that I got a driver to take me around for as long as I wanted and to anywhere I wanted to go. First was all around areas that specialized in different art forms. The first was Batubulan where I got to see and learn about the batik process (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Batik) and see weaving done by a big loom. All the styles were so beautiful and it’s really cool to see how not everything in our world is machine done, that people still can make beautiful things by hand. Next was Celuk where gold and silver jewelry making is dominate. Everything I saw was so amazing however I couldn’t come close to affording anything, and I ran into the same issue in Batuan (beautiful things and way too expensive) with paintings. However I would still recommend going to an art gallery in Batuan because it was incredible. The galleries are outside in what look like temples and there were trees and flowers everywhere. I could have just sat there all day! But, another annoyance was the lack of space in Batuan. From being in Asia for almost 8 months I know that the protocol for people working in any kind of store or business is very different than in the West. Usually merchants are much more in your face and are over-helpful which is annoying, however, it’s their culture. I have come to accept this and deal with it, to an extent. In Batuan and in Mas (my next stop) I didn’t even have room to breathe, let alone look at any of the art. I tried to be as obvious as I possibly could but after literally almost bumping into the guy that was showing me around because he really wouldn’t leave I had to go. The same thing happened in Mas where I saw absolutely incredible woodcarving. It was unfortunate as well because I was really looking to buy a gift for the wedding I am going to in Israel in a week. I just couldn’t get close to comfortable with my space invaded like that.

After that I got taken to Ubud and had lunch and went to the monkey forest! I thought it was amazing, but not for the expected reasons. After living near the monkey temple in Nepal I was not as impressed by the monkeys (they are usually dirty and a pain in the ass) but by the forest. I have always felt really at home in the woods and around trees and nature, so this was the most comfortable I have felt in a long time. There were enormous trees everywhere with branches and vines hanging all around. There were fountains with cool water and steps leading in all different directions. If it hadn’t started to pour I would have gotten my book and stayed all afternoon. Unfortunately the rain wasn’t letting up so I went back to the hotel. I treated myself to a massage and had dinner. I was really happy with the day I had had and was excited to see more the next day!

Just as I had hoped Friday was another great day! I started off at the Tirta Empul temple (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tirta_Empul_Temple), which is known for its holy waters of healing and purification. It was especially busy because it was a full moon, which, meant many Hindu people came to bathe in the waters. Although I had not other clothes with me I had to go in! When else would I get to do something this special?! The locals seemed only a little surprised but really happy when I got in. The water was cool and refreshing (it was very hot out) and I was really happy I went! My driver told me that I was the only person he had ever taken who had actually gotten in. I feel spiritually cleansed! After my bathing I went to a fruit and coffee plantation, which was so cool! The plantation itself was beautiful, so many trees and plants and the view was incredible! After looking at all the different fruit plants I got to have a tea and coffee tasting (for free)! I tried 5 different teas (lemon, lemon grass, rosa, ginger, and pandanus), 5 coffees (ginseng, and vanilla), and hot cocoa. My favorites were the lemon and pandanus teas and the vanilla coffee. It was so cool to just sit in front of this amazing view and get to try all sorts of different things! I also tried kopi luwak coffee (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kopi_Luwak) which if you don’t know what it is (besides the most expensive coffee in the world) PLEASE look it up! I was still wet from Tirta Empul and sitting in the warm sun was the perfect feeling with my tea.

Next stop was Kintamani Mountain where I ate lunch with a great view. The only problem was that fog was rolling in very fast not only obscuring my view but making me very cold. I left just as the rain started and was still chilly from being wet earlier. The last stop of the day was Besakih Temple. It was still gray and a little rainy but that didn’t take away from the fact that it was the biggest temple site (besides Angkor Wat) that I have ever been to. I had a 12-year-old guide who took me through all the different buildings and semi explained to me what everything meant. I wish it had been nicer outside but again, it was still pretty amazing. I got back to the hotel late and very hungry and tired. I felt really good and really proud of myself for getting up and doing my best to explore Bali. I was ready for a pool day!

On Saturday I slept in and then had some good quality pool and sun time. I read and relaxed and thought about all of the wonderful things I had seen in the past couple of days. Then at around 4 I headed off to Tanah Lot Temple to see the sun set. There was traffic and by the time I got there yet again it was getting rainy. Fortunately I got there in time to see the end of a pretty sky and got to see the temple while there was still a little day light left. This has been one of my favorite temples because it is “a rock formation off of Bali,” which means its in the water! The waves hit the rocks and I got wet and didn’t care. I wish I had come earlier and spent more time there (there was an “art market” but it was just tourist crap, and not even the good kind) but I went back about an hour after I got there. I hadn’t been able to fall asleep for the past few nights and Saturday was proving to be no different. I didn’t know why I just couldn’t calm my thoughts. So I thought maybe a day of shopping and not so much driving could help!

So on Sunday I spent my afternoon in Seminyak shopping. It was nice to go somewhere semi-close (40 minutes) and just walk around and wander. There was an out door market with dresses, jewelry, shoes, and sunnies. There were streets lined with stores of every different kind of style. I love shopping on my own, I never have to worry about boring anyone and can spend as much or as little time as I want somewhere. I bought a beautiful dress for the wedding I have in Israel and went back to the hotel very pleased. I was planning on spending the rest of my afternoon at the pool but again it started to rain. I had an afternoon of reading and listening to music. I was getting bored and ready to move on.

However, moving was not going to happen on Monday. My credit card finally came but my debit card was still MIA. I called to see where it was and found out it was going to get to NY the next day and THEN it would be shipped out. I was frustrated and sick of not only being in a hotel but one that is so expensive and so far away from anything. I talked to my dad and we worked out a way for me to be able to leave the next day and still be ok with money. Thank goodness. I planned on leaving in the morning!

This didn’t happen. Not only was it pouring when I woke up but I felt awful. My stomach hurt and my body hurt and I was not happy. I spent yet another day in bed but fortunately began to feel better in the late afternoon (it was still raining though). I read a lot and did a lot of writing. I booked a car to take me to Padang Bai tomorrow so whether or not I feel ok I am still going! I know it will probably pour again but I am still going! I am SO ready to get out of here and so excited to go somewhere new!

Signed,

Very Antsy 

Bad Bali

"My own life has been much more than a fairy tale. I've had my share of difficult moments, but whatever difficulties I've gone through, I've always gotten the prize at the end." (Audrey Hepburn)

I had to wake up at 3 in the morning to get to the airport at 4 so I could be on my flight at 6:15. Lovely. It was sad saying goodbye to R especially because I knew I would be on my own again. Thankfully I slept for the majority of the flight (only about 4 hours) and was relatively alert when we landed. Everything went pretty smoothly, my visa is $25 (other currencies are accepted as well, I paid in Thai Baht), and I got my bag immediately! I went right to Kuta beach because I heard it’s really easy to get a place to stay because it’s filled with tourists and guesthouses.  I found a place on Poppies Lane I and then went and got some food. By that time it was mid afternoon and decided to be ambitious and stay awake through the afternoon. I went to the beach for a bit but it was really crowded. I was planning on having a pretty low-key night but then I got a party invitation. R hooked me up with a guy (M) who works at a guesthouse in Bali (one he stayed at when he was there) and also gives tours. So M messaged me saying they were having a party at his hotel and he could pick me up and take me back whenever I wanted. I was tired but thought it would be great to meet people.

The party did not exactly go as I had imagined. It turned out to be a birthday party for the boss of the guesthouse, which meant pretty much all locals. Now I am all about true local experiences and really getting to know the people where I am visiting. However, I was very tired and had really been looking forward to meet tourists so I could find people to travel with so I was a bit put off. But I naturally tried to make the best of my situation, M was really nice and his wife A was absolutely adorable and so kind, and everyone they introduced me to was very friendly and spoke pretty good English. Things were turning out decently until M’s cousin D started talking to me. First it was friendly then it was getting to that borderline flirtatious which first and foremost I found plain annoying because I was very tired (physically) and a bit nervous emotionally from it being my first day alone in a new country. I thought it inappropriate that he would be almost hitting on me when I was a potential new client of his cousin. After I had stayed as long as I thought was necessary I told A and M I needed to go back so I could go to sleep. But they asked D to take me back. I wasn’t thrilled but I didn’t really think much about it. Not a good ride. First of all, he drove like a madman, and not in the good way. I love bikes and I love going fast and am not afraid, but he was not driving responsibly. Second, he really started to hit on me, asking if I had a boyfriend, saying he wanted to see me again…everything that could make a girl feel uncomfortable and annoyed at the same time! I was so relived to get back safely and thankful I was alright. I took a walk to clear my head and decided I was leaving Kuta Beach the next day. I felt really bad because I told M and A that I was going to come stay at the place they worked in the morning and I had really meant it. But after the ride and the thought of seeing D all the time changed my mind completely. I went to sleep tired and lonely.

Saturday was not a good day. I am embarrassed to say it but I totally and completely lost all of my motivation and stayed in bed all day. I just didn’t want to get up and try to do anything. I felt homesick and alone and just couldn’t pull myself together. Eventually I showered and got dinner but I still felt sad. I promised myself that I really would leave the next day and go to Ubud like I had wanted. I thought I would forget all the bullshit and start fresh there. Unfortunately this was not the case.

When I went to check out in the morning my bill for my room was way more expensive than I had been told. They assured me no one could have possibly said that to me but I was determined. I would have never stayed in a place that cost so much. Eventually we came to a compromise (which I still felt was too much) and I left pissed off and extremely anxious to get to Ubud and get away from Kuta. I found a great deal for a mini bus, which a very nice man helped me with. I got some food and shortly after the bus came. I got to sit up front because the driver told me I was the only person alone so I got to be comfortable. We made a couple stops and picked up the others (who ALL turned out to be French) and were on our way. Then the trouble started again, the driver started hitting on me. Now I am really never one to harp so much about guys hitting on me, but when it is like this I get upset. I was not in the mood and got mad. The ride would have been comfortable had it not been for the driver asking me questions every 5 minutes (mainly about what my plans were and if I had a boyfriend). I was very relieved to get there. I immediately started walking with 3 guys from the bus (I was not taking any more chances) but ended up on my own after a bit. I found a decent place and decided to get some food…except that I couldn’t because my wallet was gone.

Deep down I knew it was gone and there wasn’t anything I could do. But I obviously searched everywhere first before I started to cry. I had to wait for a few hours because it was only around 3 in the morning in the States so I couldn’t call my parents yet. I couldn’t get food and sit at a café because I had no money (I actually had about $30 which I changed into rupiah but that was to pay for my room and the little money I had left I wanted to save for dinner or transportation). I spent the afternoon trying to read and just not think about it (obviously impossible). In loosing my wallet I lost (besides the actual wallet itself which I was very sad about because I had gotten it in Nepal and really liked it) 2 debit cards, 1 credit card, my driver’s license, and my cash. The license I don’t need and can be easily replaced when I get home. The cards were canceled once I called my parents. Unfortunately there was nothing I could do about my cash and all I could think was that I am lucky I don’t keep my passport in my wallet. 

My Dad fixed everything once I told him what had happened. Him and my Step Mother have a ton of points at the Marriott and he arranged for me to be picked up the next day and to stay there until my new cards arrived (which were going to be sent there). I felt glad that everything was ok but more sad and alone than ever. It felt like I wasn’t meant to be in Bali. I had wanted to come to Bali for so long (just like Thailand) and I almost felt that it was rejecting me. I didn’t fall asleep for a long time that night.

On Monday I left Ubud and went to the Marriott Courtyard in Nusa Dua (south of Kuta Beach). I didn’t end up getting there until mid afternoon because there had been some confusion with the directions. I got checked in and everything and felt really weird. Obviously everything was extremely nice (the hotel itself, my room, the pool, the staff, etc.) and again I was really thankful that not only my parents could help me but they could help me in this nice of a way….BUT! The best way I can describe my feelings was that I felt like a) I didn’t deserve to be at so nice of a place and b) that I was “cheating” on being a true traveller. Let me explain. When I stayed at the Marriott in India for a day and a half with Sh and O I had been in India for about 5 weeks. I had been spending almost nothing, washing my own cloths, not having an air con (and sometimes not even a fan) in extreme heat, going on 13-hour sleeper buses, and having freezing showers. I felt like I deserved a little luxury! But I was in Thailand, which was really nice and even in Cambodia and Lao the accommodations were pretty decent. So I kind of felt like I didn’t need all this luxury was unnecessary. I also really liked the fact that I stay in cheap places, eat street food, and buy my clothing in side alleys. To me this marks one of the many differences between being on holiday and travelling. I have always felt I was a traveller at heart and now I actually was one. Being at so nice of a place felt like a cop out. I know this is all a bit ridiculous, but it’s how I felt.

Very unfortunately I let all of these feelings destroy my Tuesday. I stayed in bed again all day feeling sad and not wanting to get up. The longer I stayed the more embarrassed I got. What was happening? A week ago I had been seeing the world and now I didn’t want to get out from under the covers? After I took a shower and had dinner I knew it all had to change. I was going to stop acting sorry for myself and try taking advantage of a good opportunity. Maybe I wasn’t going to meet anyone, but I could do something else, I could really use my time to see Bali. I went to bed knowing that’s what I was going to do.

On Wednesday I got up and booked a driver to take me to see the sunset at the Uluwatu Temple. Then I had lunch and spent some time by the pool and got some sun. Around 4:45 I got driven to Pura Luhur Uluwatu (about 45 minutes away from the hotel) to watch the sun set. Wow! It was so beautiful, right by the water and in the middle of all these beautiful trees and flowers. I explored and walked around and remembered why I was here (in Bali, traveling) and even smiled when a VERY large monkey stole my water bottle. At around 6:30 I went to an outdoor semicircle theater for a Kecak performance (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kecak). Personally, I loved it; I thought it was beautiful and full of magic. In Kecak there is what is described as a chorus of men who make the music for the performance a cappella. They sit in a circle for the whole time and the actors move all around them. There was a big fire in the center and the sun had just set. The story of Rama was told in this style, no words spoken, just dance and the special chant from the chorus. It was amazing.

When I got back to the hotel I immediately booked a driver for the next day and got some good suggestions of what I should go and see. I am out of my slump and ready to get back out there! Very excited!

Signed,

Back On Track 

Pit Stop: Back to Bangkok

“…The true harvest of my daily life is somewhat as intangible and indescribable as the tints of morning or evening. It is a little star-dust caught, a segments of the rainbow which I have clutched.” (Henry David Thoreau)

Getting back into Thailand was a million times more pleasant than entering both Cambodia and Lao. We didn’t have to get the bus until 3pm, which meant that we could sleep past 5 in the morning. We took a minibus to the border (Chongmek boundary) and crossed into Thailand in an air-conditioned building and did not have to pay anything! Then we had to take a tuk tuk to a bus station and wait about an hour for the bus that would take us back to Thailand. The bus came and left on time (6 pm), had good air con, and even gave us snack bags! Luxury! We did not get gassed and actually managed to be semi comfortable. The midnight stop was a little crazy, our pit stop was at a huge places with dozens of buses and a huge open place with stalls with food and tons of people. Even through the haze of tiredness I still thought it was cool. We got back to Bangkok around 5:30 in the morning and then found a place as quickly as possible and went straight to sleep.

Eventually I got up and did some shopping and wandering around Bangkok. I really love this city even though I completely sweat through my clothing and want to die a bit. I just feel happy and comfortable here, but I guess I feel that way in a lot of cities. Then I got to take advantage of the pool at our guesthouse, which was awesome! The view was beautiful, so many buildings, colorful flowers, and non -top life and energy. For dinner we got the pizza at Green House (so amazing) and I also tried scorpion (it’s a common sight to see people selling crazy looking bugs and I hadn’t done it yet)…it kind of tasted like chicken but was hard to swallow! After we ate we took a walk down Khao San and had one last bucket in Bangkok!

On Thursday I rolled out of bed at 6:45 in the morning and got picked up at 7:20 to get taken to the Damnone Saduak Floating Market (R had already been). I picked the most popular one (there is also Amphawa, Taling Chan, and Khlong Lat Mayom), which ended up being a mistake. It is way too tourist oriented and did not feel authentic. I know there is a better one with lots of food but that is just one more reason for me to come back to Thailand! The good part of the trip was that I met a nice English couple (T and M) who are going to Bali the day after me so I might have some company! When I got back R and I ate and had one last walk around and then headed off to a hotel we had booked close to the airports.

Tomorrow morning I will be on my way to Bali, my last stop before Israel, and I have very mixed feelings. I feel extremely excited because Bali is somewhere I have always dreamed of going. I feel sad because I have had an amazing time in Thailand (as well as Cambodia and Lao) and this chapter is over. I feel a bit nervous because I will be on my own again. Finally, I feel confused because this is my last travel stop. I want to enjoy it as much as possible but at the same time I know this is the end and I the thought of returning home is not just some far off date in the future. I will do the best I can and really try to channel my inner strength. Then again, I might not have to try so hard because after almost 8 months I think I have really found it. After all, in my opinion, strength is a synonym for traveller.

Signed,

Tangible Future

Lao

“I travel not to go anywhere, but to go. I travel for travel's sake. The great affair is to move." (Robert Louis Stevenson)

Going from Cambodia to Lao turned out to be a very long and frustrating trip. First and foremost I would advise taking a different route (Lao to Cambodia or Thailand to Cambodia, etc.) because the Cambodia/Laos border is not often used and there is only one overland option (Veun Kham/ Dom Kralor).  We were supposed to get picked up at our hotel at 5:15 in the morning but the bus was almost an hour late. Then we changed buses and had the luxury to be on a nice cool bus for a few hours. Then came the mini bus…17 people…we were all in hell. It was really hot and terribly uncomfortable for about 2 hours. Then the majority of the people got off and the rest of us continued on. The driver turned on really loud music and pretended not to understand us when we asked him to turn it off and then started driving like a mad man. It was delightful. Around 5:30 we got dumped at a bus stop. Were we changing buses again? No, the Cambodia/Lao border closed at 5pm and we needed to stay the night (in Sung Treng). Seriously? R and I were told the trip would take 12 hours and the girls who were with us (C from Sweden and M and N from Holland) also heard it would take 12-15 hours and we all heard we would be in Lao by the end of the day. In other words, we got scammed so we would spend money on a guesthouse. We were all hot, tired, and pissed off. It would have been fine if they had been honest with us but this was a very unpleasant surprise. We reluctantly went and found a guesthouse, ate some dinner, and passed out.

The next day (Thursday) we got to sleep in until 7! Then we met up with the 3 girls and went to the bus stop to get on the bus that would hopefully take us to Lao. The bus was supposed to come at 8:30 so naturally we waited an hour (but had the entertainment of a guy playing DJ with terrible American club music). Finally we got on the bus and about an hour and a half later we were at the border. Prices vary slightly for a Lao visa depending on what country you are from (if you have more than 1 passport look up which is cheaper beforehand because R could not use his other passport because he had used his USA one for Cambodia and had to use the same one). For Americans it is $35 for the visa but then everyone has to pay $2 for the departure stamp from Cambodia and $1 for the stamp for Lao (apparently ink is expensive or they just want to screw you a bit). $38 later we got dropped off near the ferries that would take use to Don Det (Si Phan Don or 4,000 Islands). We had to pay for the ferry (it’s really cheap but again the place we bought our bus ticket said the ferry was included and again they were wrong), which was annoying, but then we were off. We got to the island and quickly found a room, ate, and got in the water! We met some people staying there and made a plan to go tubing with some of them the next day! That night after dinner there was a knock on the door, a guy from Canada we had met in the water earlier. His girl friend (who we had met as well) was sick, they had smoked some weed and she was now completely freaking out. She eventually fell asleep and was fine. We also met a couple people who smoked and were totally ok, however, be aware that there is a chance of getting pretty sick.

We had a really long and really good day on Friday. First we went on a long bike ride with C to the Somphamit Waterfall. The ride was absolutely beautiful! We saw lots of animals (we got in the water and petted the buffalo) and got more of the sense of local life in Lao. When we got to the waterfall we were really hot and tired but the sight was still amazing. I have never been to Niagara Falls but this was pretty cool to me! We took a lot of pictures and then a Thai tour group came over and they wanted to take pictures with us, which was really funny! We got in the water (in a little pool nearby) before biking back, which was very refreshing and cooled us down. We got back around 12:30 and then had a quick lunch before we went tubing! We went with C and S (a guy we met yesterday) and 4 other people he was with. It was cheaper with more people (20,000 kip each, a little under $3) and we got beer and a cooler and were ready to go! It was a blast! I highly recommend it! We floated down the river for about an hour and then had to “pull over” because it started to thunder and lightning. We ended up in a little house with a bunch of local people. The kids were really excited and the people were really nice about letting us stay. It was one of those magical travel moments that could never be planned (that obviously makes it even better). The sky cleared and the rain stopped and we went back to the river to finish our tubing adventure. It was a little after 5:30 when we got back to shore and we were all exhausted. Sleep followed very quickly after dinner.

Saturday was a relaxing day in which I read and chilled out all afternoon and then watched the sunset. We got bus tickets to Pakse for the next day and watched a movie at night. Our bus wasn’t until 11 so I could actually pack in the morning, which was nice. We took the ferry off of Don Det and then got on the bus. It was about a two and a half hour drive with the air con dripping on me a whole lot. After the bus we got set up at the Lankham Hotel and immediately showered (I had literally sweat through my shirt and shorts…delicious I know). Then we spent the late afternoon and early evening at a great café (Kafe Katuad) drinking coffee shakes and enjoying the wifi. After that we got crappy take out and called it a night.

On Monday we got breakfast at an awesome place called Bolaven and after went exploring. First we went to the river front near the bridge and visited the Wat Luang Temple which “is deemed as the most beautiful temple in Pakse. It is also where Wat Phabad, the Buddhist Monk School is located which includes studies in English, business management, and cultural studies. Rumour has it that Lord Buddha left his footprint here, at Wat Phabad, the biggest and oldest temple of Pakse.” After we went to the local fresh market/mall but it was a bit too Western and unorganized so we ended up just wandering through. Then we wanted to find the Dao Heuang Market but we didn’t realize how long of a walk it was. The actual distance was not the problem, but the heat was. When it does not rain the heat truly horrible. It can get dangerous extremely quickly (walk in the shade and drink a ton of water). But we did make it and what a sight it was! The market is massive with a food section and a kind of everything else section. We saw a lot of fish and meat (which was interesting for me because there was not much of that in Nepal and India) as well as every domestic product you can imagine. What was really interesting though was the lack of harassment. I am so used to be jumped on the minute I walk past a shop but because no one speaks English, not only did I not get bothered, but when I actually wanted to look at something they were reluctant to help me at all. Before we got to the market we had wanted to take a break and get a fruit shake at one of the dozens or little restaurants we kept passing. But we could not get help. No one could understand what we wanted. In Nepal this was normal (people not knowing English) but at least I knew enough of the language to communicate what I wanted. I wasn’t frustrated, I was interested. I thought back to last year when I was working before I left for this journey (but knowing I was going) and trying to be more sympathetic to people coming in and not knowing a lot of English. I remember thinking “this will be you soon so try to be patient like you will want others to be with you.” Nepalis are so friendly and really made an attempt to try to understand me, but here I did not feel that. In my opinion, most of the Lao people I have been around have not been unfriendly, but they have not been overly friendly either (with exceptions of course). We eventually tore ourselves away from the market (it was the smell of meat and fish that really did it) and went back to shower and be cool for a minute.

Tomorrow we will go back to Thailand. We will take a bus and cross the border into Thailand by land and then have an overnight bus into Bangkok. I will have a couple days there and then be off to Bali! This is the last leg of my journey (I will go to Israel after Bali but in my eyes that is more of a vacation for me as opposed to traveling) and I am really excited and freaked out about it. I am trying not to think about it too much or stress out but it is hard to comprehend that fact that sometime next month (I haven’t bought my ticket from Israel to the States yet) I will be back in the States, back home. So for now I will just try to have these thoughts in the background of my mind and have the foreground be filled with thoughts of fruit shakes, beaches, and airplanes.

Signed,

In Transit and Transition