Monday, June 17, 2013

Coming Home


“All journeys eventually end in the same place, home.” (Chris Geiger)

I got up this morning a little before 3. I dressed and put all last minute things in my bag and said a silent goodbye to the apartment. I got in the car and semi slept on the way to the airport. The lines were really long for checking bags and going through security so by the time I made it through I only had 10 minutes to use the bathroom and get some snacks before I boarded the plane. I shared a row with a girl and we had an empty middle seat so we both spread out and slept most of the way. My layover in Warsaw was a little under 4 hours so I got food and played on my computer. But mostly I thought. We boarded the plane and took off.

I am now on my last plane. This flight that will finally take me home after almost 9 months away. I started talking to the girl sitting next to me and when I took a step back and listened to myself I could see how much I had changed. It isn’t in one big way or even a few medium ways, more like a ton of really tiny things. For example, things have come to mean less and less to me. Materials and objects are like security blankets, especially technology. I really love having a laptop to check my facebook and to blog, but I know I can just as easily live with my journal and go to an internet café when necessary. Not having a phone is annoying but really liberating at the same time. Before this trip I was attached to my phone. When it rang or buzzed I answered immediately. Now I think if my phone rings when I am eating with my family I can wait.

After all of my experiences I feel like the world is a lot bigger and smaller than I thought. It is smaller because no matter where you are you can always find a place to stay, a decent meal, and some tourists to talk to. Whether you are in Bangkok or Siem Reap you are never really lost and can always find your way if you look for it. However, now that I have been to a few places in Asia I really recognize how much of the world I haven’t seen and how many new places I want to experience. It is crazy to think that I have been gone for so long and still have seen so little of my world.

I have also learned that I have been too hard on my own country. I am always the first one to say that I dislike America when the truth is that I have not only taken for granted so many rights that I have, but I also sound like a damn fool. How can I possibly appreciate the world and the other countries I have visited when I can’t even appreciate my own? That is why this summer I am planning on playing tourist and going to really see Philadelphia and New York. As an American I am just used to having so many things come naturally (wifi, hot showers, toilet paper, and clean drinking water to name a few things) and after really getting to see that so much of my world lives without electricity for so much of the day (as well as so many other things) I think I need to be thankful. There are many things about my country I don’t like, but I don’t think it will hurt to acknowledge the good things as well.

One of my biggest fears about going home is that once the magic is over I will loose some of the amazing people I met along the way. Long distance relationships are hard and I am afraid that once life gets back to normal I won’t hear from some of my new friends. They are the people who understand my love for this crazy wonderful thing called travel. I love my friends that I have but unfortunately not many of them know this life style. What if no one understands me and how I feel? Who will still want to listen to me talk about travel after I have been home for a month? Everyone else has a job and I am still in Wanderland.

Another fear: I don’t really know what I am doing with my life. I haven’t even gotten home yet and already I have been asked this question so many times. I have a few answers prepared:

Opening a school for kids who don’t read good
Becoming a foot model
Going to the Moon
Joining the circus
Converting to Hinduism
Learning to tap dance

In other words…I don’t know yet! I refused to be pressured by others to make a quick decision (I am hard enough on myself)! So instead of desperately grasping for anything that comes my way to help me make a decision I am going to think about what I have learned over the past few months to help me:

I am braver than I think
Not all people are kind, but the ones who are, are worth holding on to
The world is big and small at the same time
Alone time is a blessing…but not for too long
A warm shower and air conditioning are luxuries
I love working with children
Reading keeps me sane
I don’t always know when to trust someone and when they are making excuses, but I am working on it
How to let things go (getting better at this…still working on it)
How to love myself

I may have wasted 9 months traveling (as many people not so subtly told me), but I think the list above makes it worth it.

So as I near my destination (I have about 3 and a half hours left on the plane…with no tv I may add!) I am happy and sad, scared and excited, and confused and calm. I hope that no matter where or when my next adventure is that I remember all the wonderful things that I have learned. Over the next few months when I am attempting to merge my two lives (American and Asian) together I continue to:

Take off my shoes while eating
Not pick up my phone the second it rings
Not waste water
Be incredibly thankful for washing machines
Love and appreciate my country and the people around me

I don’t know if I am completely ready to be on my way home, but in my heart it feels right, and after everything I have seen and been through I know that I can always trust myself.

Signed,
Home Is Where the Heart Is 

Israel


“No one realizes how beautiful it is to travel until he comes home and rests his head on his old, familiar pillow. ”  (Lin Yutang)

Going from Bali to Israel was a very long process. First and foremost you have to pay a fee to leave Bali. Ok so I paid for a visa to come in and now I have to pay to leave after I spent a ton of money there? Seems incredibly stupid to me. Anyway the plane was delayed for about 30 minutes (which was fine with me considering the length of my layover awaiting me) but once we boarded we were off. I had two seats to myself and was asleep for the entire 6 and a half hour flight! I got into Seoul around 8:30 in the morning and found some food. The airport is enormous! If I had had more money it would have been the best layover ever! However everything awesome was obviously very expensive. Therefore I could not go to the lounge, get a pedicure, or take a shower. Oh well. Finally I decided it was time to head to my gate and I was greeted with a very strange site: a choir of Asian people signing Israeli songs. It made me smile none the less and made me excited to finally get to Israel. The flight was about 11 hours (if one of my favorite shows had not been an option I would have been screwed!) but surely enough I made it!  I wandered off the plane and got my bag and somehow managed to make it through immigration and finally found my driver. I fell asleep for most of the way but finally I was in Hosha Ya and T and Y (my cousin and her husband) where there to meet me! They had a nice little room with had an air conditioner and I was asleep in no time!

I had a most epic sleep! When I finally woke up I still felt groggy but so much better! I got to take a hot shower in which the showerhead did not make the entire bathroom wet! I had time to myself to take a breath and look at my surroundings. I walked their dog around their neighborhood and smiled at how incredibly beautiful Israel is. T came back from work and we hung out and talked which was really nice because we never really have before. When Y got home we went to dinner at Aroma and then I got shoes for the wedding and a gift. It was a really nice night. We were all happy and talkative and the weather was beautiful (not unbearably hot!) and I just felt really happy.

The next 4 days (Thursday through Sunday) were all about the wedding! The wedding was in Jerusalem (right across from where E and Y were married) and it was beautiful. I was the cleanest I had been in almost 9 months and it felt good and weird at the same time. I got to see all my cousins and E and Y’s girls, which was amazing. The ceremony was outside while the sun was setting and I still couldn’t believe that I was actually there. That 8 and a half months ago I was invited to this wedding and that I was not only there but it had gone the way I had planned it. For an Israeli wedding it was small (300-400 people) but there was a ton of food and dancing and an overall wonderful night!

On Friday I had breakfast with T and then we went shopping for a bit and then I got on a bus to Jerusalem because I was going to spend Shabbat with Y and E. I immediately went and played with the girls until it was time to go to dinner (at E’s aunts). I got to talk to S (E’s cousin) and her boyfriend J and I really like them both. They made the evening fun and we all ate and talked and relaxed.
Saturday was pretty laid back, I physically went to shul but I was outside playing with T the whole time! Then there was a luncheon after (which wasn’t really my thing but it was fine). Then in the tradition of Shabbat I went back to Y and E’s and had a nap! That night we (me, Y, S, J, and other friends and cousins) went to the Old City to see the light show! It was so cool! There were all different decorations and things all playing with light in a different way. I thought it was really beautiful and I felt happy because I hadn’t been to the Old City in a long time and it is a place I really love. There was one thing that was really bothering me though. I hadn’t seen any of my friends. I understood that they all have their own lives, families, and friends, but I had just thought after months of some of them telling me how much fun we were going to have when I came to visit that it would actually happen. I am trying not to get upset but it’s frustrating. Everyone here has children or is married and I just wanted some “young person time” with my friends.

Sunday was the last of the wedding festivities. There was a brunch with absolutely amazing food (spring rolls and pad Thai)! Then I babysat for both of the girls! It was really fun! We colored and played and they were so sweet and good…I just want to put them in my bag and take them with me! We had dinner in and just hung out and talked for a while. Then I finally found a website which allowed me to watch Game of Throne…. clearly that was what I did the rest of the night!

Monday was awesome! I went to the Israel Museum with E and M where we met S and J and T (E’s aunt). We saw the Herod exhibit which was really interesting and then went outside and saw all the sculptures and took lots of pictures. E and M left and then the rest of us went back inside and saw some amazing exhibits (Seven Winters, Displaced Visions, and Shadowplay). I was really happy because I love art and going to museums and although I have been to many temples lately, I have not gone anywhere like this in so long. I remembered how passionate I am about art and it made me happy that although so much about me has changed, some things remain constant. After the museum I went to the shook with S and J. We walked around and got falafel and then made our way back to Y and E’s neighborhood. We met with everyone for dinner to say goodbye (S and J are going back to the states tomorrow). I was sad to say goodbye but I am so happy I met them and S and I already planned a date in NYC this summer! Nighttime was obviously all about Game of Thrones!

Tuesday was also really amazing! I spent the day with O! It was so great to see her and all my frustration went out the window in a heartbeat. We went to Machne Yuddah for breakfast (too good to describe) and then walked all over the Center of Jerusalem. She took me to some amazing little stores and then we met her friend (who is going back packing for 6 months next week) and the 3 of us got food and sat forever talking about traveling. It was so enjoyable talking like that because O obviously understood everything I felt, and her friend was interested in everything because she was doing the same thing. I think another reason it was good to come to Israel before going back to the States is because it has allowed me to talk a lot about my experiences without any negativity or backlash. I have come to understand that when I go on and on talking about places my friends have never been and how amazing it was that they may feel jealous and annoyed instead of interested and excited. Not everyone loves what I do as much as me and I can’t blame them if they don’t want to hear about it all the time or why they might feel annoyed or even offended when I say how much better other places are then the States. In Israel so many people have traveled that they understand and enjoy hearing and talking about it. So maybe since I talked so much about things I won’t need to as much when I get back.

On Wednesday afternoon I went to the pool with E and M and the girls! WOW! The three of them LOVE to swim and go in the water! It was so adorable. They all were splashing and playing and having the time of their lives! I personally see no reason why anyone would not want his or her kid to be in the water (pool or ocean) as soon as possible. When I was playing with T and mother started talking to me and asked how old T was. She told me her daughter was a little older and was scared to go in. I mean yes, some kids just have a fear of swimming, but I say try your best to get them to love it! Swimming is such a joy and so much fun. After they swam they played in the park (right next to the pool) and they didn’t want to leave! Bottom line, it was a great afternoon!

Thursday was the beginning of the formula 1 race for peace. We took the girls to the train station and got food and let the girls run around for a while. We tried to go see the cars but there were so many people we couldn’t see a thing! I thought it was just fun to be out and walking around (it was gorgeous out). The girls got to run around all afternoon and we let them have rebar smoothies and the sun was starting to set by the time we headed back. For dinner I went out with E and M! We got amazing sushi and talked for such a long time.  They told me that since I didn’t have any siblings they would be by stand in sisters. I don’t think they knew how happy that made me. Recently (in the past 4-5 years) I have come to really understand what being an only child means and have been a little sad that I didn’t have anyone. I do have step-siblings but we aren’t close. Maybe that will change one day but we are all really different. Anyway it means so much that E and M really like me, I hope they can really be there for me (they have children which I know is more than a full time job) and we can still be close even when I’m not around.

On Friday I went to a birthday party with Y and R. It was dessert heaven! Cupcakes, cookies, and lollypops everywhere! There was even an Aldo stand (delicious ice cream)! What was even better was that it was in the beautiful park full of trees and flower and big open spaces of grass. We weren’t there for very long but I enjoyed myself thoroughly! Then I took a bus from Jerusalem to Haifa to stay with E! She picked me up on her motorcycle which was awesome…except that I had all my stuff with me! When I leaned forward my back would hurt and when I would lean back my stomach would hurt. It felt like a very long ride to her place but we made it…then I got off and was so eager to be off the bike that I got off on the right side and obviously burned my leg on the muffler. Lovely. I took a much needed shower and then we (me, E, and her boyfriend I) took bikes and went to the mall (a much more enjoyable ride). We met up with N (a friends of theirs) for dinner and then went to a movie! I hadn’t been out to a movie since Nepal so I was really excited! We saw “Now You See Me,” a cute and fun movie that I would never have paid money for back home but since I was away and with friends I enjoyed it. After the movie it was time for bed and I was very grateful!

Since E had worked a night shift at the hospital (she is a nurse) we didn’t go out until the afternoon on Saturday. We took the bikes (beautiful ride) and I am not completely sure where we were (near the Japanese Museum) but there was the most amazing view of Haifa! I also kind of forget about Haifa (I was here once about 3 and a half years ago for T and Y’s wedding) because I am always thinking about Jerusalem, which is such a shame because Haifa is really awesome! It had the feel of a city (like Tel Aviv) but that relaxed air (like Jerusalem) and that for e is a great combination. We had a late lunch/early dinner and just sat forever talking about TBT and our friends and Nepal. It was cold on the ride back so we got into pjs and watched a movie (“The Dark Knight”)! It was really awesome to just hang out with E. She is a really interesting and kind person and I am happy to have a friend like her.

Sunday was my last day in Israel and unfortunately I spent it exhausted. I got maybe two hours of sleep. Maybe because I slept late, maybe because I am subconsciously more stressed then I think about going home, maybe I was just too wound up. Whatever the reason, when I finally fell asleep it was light outside and the birds were signing. Add that to having to get up at 8:15 and that is how I felt. I gave me a ride to the bus station (with all my stuff again) and then I waited for the bus to Nachsolim beach where everyone had stayed for Shabbat). The ride was only 30 minutes but when I got off it was in the middle of nowhere! In Israel there are bus stops literally on a highway with absolutely nothing in site. I thought about almost 9 months ago when I had been at a similar bus stop and panicking that my bus wouldn’t come. Now, after all of my adventures I just smiled. I found a sign for Nachsolim and only had to wait a minute before I saw a car. I flagged it down (E told me it was safe to hitch a ride) and the guy took me most of the way. Then I got out and found signs for their hotel. I could have flagged down another car, but it wasn’t that far and I decided to walk. It was as if this was some sort of test. All of my triumphs and failures of the past 9 months had led up to this: not only being able to handle life’s little jokes, but being able to do it gracefully and maybe even see the humor in it. I found their room and didn’t even mind that I was sweating (this was nothing compared to Cambodia!). They were all so impressed that I found them but E’s dad just looked at me and smiled and said, “if she can do Asia, she can certainly do this!”

The rest of the day was really nice. We drove back to Jerusalem (E and I talked and the girls slept) and then we went to the park with M. Then we met Y for dinner out and sat outside and ate good food. I came back and packed and showered and now am ready for bed (it’s like 8pm)! I am so tired from not sleeping and I have to be ready to leave by 3am so I think an early bedtime is ok tonight.  It’s hard to believe that in a little over 24 hours I’ll be home in my own bed. I am sad to leave but I think I am ready.

Signed,
Homeward Bound 

Monday, June 3, 2013

End of Bali


“The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes, but in having new eyes.” (Marcel Proust)

Sunday I went back to Bali. M and I took a boat back to Padang Bai (a very rocky ride) and then had a bus to a guesthouse in Jumbara (near Kuta beach). The ride wasn’t supposed to take more than 2 hours…so naturally it took over 3. We stayed at this surfer guesthouse where M had been staying before. It was a slow week so there were lots of extra rooms. We went and got food immediately and then came back and I crashed for a good 2 hours. We had dinner and then came back and hung out and watched a movie. Then again, I was out!

Finally Monday came. Went to Kuta beach and did some last minute errands and then went to the beach for a while. Then we took a bike to a beach in Nusa Dua (where I also stopped at the Marriott to pick up my new debit card which finally came) and took this beautiful walk. We tried to go swimming but there were too many rocks in the water. We went back to Jumbara and I packed up and showered. Then I just hung out and waited until my cab came to take me to the airport.

I am all checked in and through security and waiting for my flight to Seoul (where I have a 6 and a half hour layover before my flight to Tel Aviv). I feel heartbroken and I can’t even put it into words. I really want to go home and see my family and friends and be able to drink tap water but I feel like I will just be empty if I leave Asia. There are only a couple of people who I can not only talk to but who will really understand and part of me just wants to call them and cry. However I can’t because they are in the States and they are working and because that is not how this is supposed to go. This has always been my journey alone and at the end of the day I have come to really rely on myself. I have learned that I am there for me and am dependable. I didn’t really think I would be able to do all this: being gone for so long and being so far away, backpacking for so long, traveling on my own at all let alone for 2 months, and doing all of this without having a breakdown. I have just gotten really used to this way of life and although I am pretty exhausted from travel, I love so many things about Asian culture and I don’t want to give that up. I just know it is so easy to get back into old habits once you have everything that you are used to.

I think it’s good that I am ending in Israel for the same reason it was good to start there. I will be back in the West but it’s not home yet. I will have a little under 2 weeks to do some adjusting just back into Western way of life (but hopefully with some new habits) before I really take the plunge and actually go back to the States. I am excited to see my family and my friends and just to be in Israel. I have no idea how this last part of my journey will go but I am just so happy with everything that has happened in the last 8 months and so sad to be leaving it.

Signed,
Smiling with Tears 

Gili T


“My hope is that we continue to nurture the places that we love, but that we also look outside our immediate worlds." (Annie Leibovitz) 

On Wednesday I finally got out of the Marriott! I got up early and checked out and then headed over to Western Union to pick up some money my dad had wired to me. I needed a copy of my passport of course and went to go make one, but then I realized I already had one but by the time I got back the guy had obviously gone on break or something and I had to wait until he got back. Therefore I got started late and by the time I got to Padang Bai I had missed the last boat to Gili. So I found a guesthouse and checked in and then took a walk. I found black rice pudding at last and a really cool temple right near where I was staying. Then I went and relaxed and showered and was going to go to a place called Ozone that I had read about and then passed earlier, but it started to downpour! So I just ate at a place I was close to and had a quiet dinner and then went back to my room and had an early night.

The next morning I got picked up at 8:30 and got dropped off at the pier. While waiting I met E, a girl from The Netherlands and we started talking. We ended up sitting together on the boat and then decided to room together once we go to Gili! We found this really tiny guesthouse that was super cheap if not a little dirty. But it worked and we went right to eat and then to the beach! WOW! The water was so clear and was two different shades of blue from a distance. There were chairs and beanbags all over the beach with people hanging out and relaxing. The water was perfect and we spent the afternoon going in and out and I even took a great nap! Eventually we tore ourselves away and went to get showers. We had dinner at the night market (which I highly recommend) and not only had great food (the corn on the grill is the best!) but the atmosphere was really fun. Once we had eaten we took a walk and looked in some really cool stores and then ended up finding M and T (from Bangok)! We talked to them for a bit but when I realized I was falling asleep mid sentence I knew it was time I headed back! I passed out in a heartbeat!

Friday was a sleep in day. But I eventually got up and had brunch and went to the beach. I ended up meeting M, who was staying in the guesthouse across from us (we had actually him and his brother and friend the day before) and we hung out for a while at the beach. We went and took showers and then we went for a walk and explored some of Gili and had coffee at this place on the beach. Around sunset there was a drum circle and all these people came to the beach. Then we walked back and everyone (me, E, M, and his brother and friend) had dinner at the night market. After dinner we hung out for a while and then went out to a bar. Parties’ start really late for some reason but it was worth it! There were a ton of people and everyone was dancing. We saw M and T again and E saw some guys she had met before. It was really fun and we all just danced for a long time. After we danced a bunch of us went for a night swim! No bathing suits, just hopped in! Just like in India there were glow in the dark plankton! It was so beautiful! The only reason we got out was because these little white things we had seen earlier in the day kept stinging us. It was such a good time! Again, I fell asleep in a minute!

Unfortunately Saturday was my last day in Gili. I had breakfast with E and then went and had coffee with M. Then the 3 of us met up and rented bikes to ride around the island. We heard it took about an hour without stops and we were planning on stopping and swimming a bunch so we prepared for a full afternoon. Not much of a bike ride when you have to push your bike through sand for most of it! But even if there had been no sand, the whole ride would have taken maybe 40 minutes. We were a bit disappointed but we stopped at the place M and I had, had coffee and got something to eat and swam. We headed back in the late afternoon and I got a boat ticket back to Bali for the next day. Then after showers M and I went and looked at these amazing vintage clothing stores and found the bookstores as well! We had dinner and then had ice cream and sat on the beach (very romantic!) and ended up talking to some people from Switzerland. E went to bed but I went to a bar to finalize plans with M (we were going to take the boat back to Bali together) and ended up staying a little longer than I should have! But I had packed before so when I got back I just climbed into bed.

I am really upset about leaving. I really like it here and have made some good friends. I wish I had left the Marriott earlier and had come here. I wanted a few more days here and to go to Lombok but I guess that will have to wait until next time. I am also really starting to get it through my head that this is the end of Asia. I am trying not to think about it too much and just enjoy my last day and a half but it’s hard. I have really come to love this style of life even when it really frustrates me. I know that I will be back and I am so happy that I have another place in my heart that I feel so close to, but it is just really hard to say goodbye.

Signed,
Sad To Go